Eternal Hydra
- Benjiamin Hepburn
- Mar 29, 2020
- 3 min read
Updated: Jan 29, 2021

Smoothly located just a few hours ferry ride from Piraeus port, Hydra emerged from the 20th century as a cosmopolitan jet set destination, capturing the interests of artists and intellectuals. It is prohibited by law to use automobiles or mopeds, therefore the only way of getting around is by boat or donkey.


The amphitheater-shaped old town gently discloses its beauty, showing traces of multicultural influences, from Venetians to Ottomans, creating a breathtaking and inspirational ensemble. This charming effect works very much also from a top-bottom perspective, you just need a bit of training to climb up the top of the mountain.


The architecture of the old town is characterized by the traditional aristocratic mansions and shipowner manors, called "archontika", home of the proactive maritime elites in the 19th century and now transformed into luxury hotels or museums. With its vivid yellow facade it's mandatory to visit the Lazaros Kountouriotis mansion museum, to go through the history of the local hero, whose family had a fundamental role in the Greek independence movement.


We get lost through its tiny flowery alleys and with surprising sights: dozens of dazzling Polaroid opportunities are available among the scent of cypress and olive trees. It is probably not possible to be more Greek than that. Despite not exactly being a backpacker destination, Hydra remains affordable even if often populated by celebrities. When asked to give a proper definition, we'd rather call it chic instead of posh.


Though the island has normally less than 2,000 inhabitants round year, it increases to 6,000 during the warm season. Many Athenians have here their Buen Retiro for the summer season, some running their touristy businesses such as typical Greek Tavernas or artsy boutiques. The Hydra Orthodox cathedral soars on the old harbor with its mini twin towers, such as the clock tower and the belfry.


A Freddo Capuccino is the best way to kick off the day: simply an iced version of a regular' one with a tiny amount of cold frothed milk on top. Coffee is a quintessential part of the Greek culture and it's locals love to spend time sipping their coffee. Frappé and Freddo Espresso are also iconic drinks of the Hellenic scene: you will see the locals sipping their iced ones while reading or engaged in conversation in the lovey cafés in the harbor promenade.

Windmills are another traditional ingredient of the Aegean Islands panorama, from Mykonos to Santorini, always as witness of the Greek historical inheritance. Back in the 18th century also Hydra'skyline was dominated by many of them. Nowadays, some of them are still in use, others have been restored for residence or touristic purposes, but in all cases they are considered archaeological buildings and as such are specially preserved.

One of the perks of Hydra is that not having sandy beaches does not attract hordes of tourists. This does not mean that there is a shortage of wonderful swimming spots. Avalaki bay is one of those unexpected locations: a slightly hidden, concrete-made platform just down a steep slope does not sounds the most appealing tropical paradise, but its deep crystal clear blue water was perfect for a first refreshment against the July heat.


Heading West from the old town, the coast road leads us to Kamini Harbor, another postcard scenery with small business, tavernas and cute little boats soaking the sun. This residential area is very quiet and cozy if compared to the movida in the Hydriot old town, probably the perfect Airbnb location for a couple of days. Castello Beach is one of the most charming spots in Kamini, highly recommend for a quick dip.


In case you wake up with a lazy mood you can simply jump in a sunbath and flip flop outfit on the many speedy boats docked in the old harbor. It's a tremendously convenient way to enjoy the blue of the sea and to hop on and off different beaches, all quite organised. When you will be sadly back home we're sure the melody of the waves in Paralia or Molos Beach will reminisce as the soundtrack of those lazy Hydra days.

It's quite not surprisingly how many celebrities became Hydriots and decided to lodge in this inspirational island. Its trails along the coast offers some of the most nostalgic sunsets you will remember. Take a seat on a bench and soak under the melting down sun at the horizon.

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